Golden Pass
Golden Pass Line
The Golden Pass Line is a train journey between Lucerne and Montreux. Actually, it is not one single train journey, you need to change trains at least twice. Although the 189 kilometre track can be covered in one single day, it is recommended that you make a few stops on the way. The Golden Pass Line offers some of the best lake and mountain scenery in the whole of Europe.
The reason for the train changes is that the track between Lucerne and Interlaken is narrow gauge, while stretch between Interlaken and Zweisimmen uses the standard gauge. And then back to narrow gauge between Zweisimmen and Montreux. There are plans to get rid of the train changes but so far the cost has been too high.
Lucerne is easy to reach from Zürich and Bern. From here the first leg of the Golden Pass departs, the journey to Interlaken. In Lucerne you can take a cruise on the lake Lucerne (Vierwalstätter See in German) but it is not as scenic as the cruises on Brienz Lake and Thun Lake in Interlaken. Getting to the cable car station for Mount Pilatus can be little bit painful but if it is a clear day it is certainly worth the hassle. Note that the summit is seldom completely cloud free. Just a few clouds is generally not a problem, often they move on after a while.
The 2 hour journey between Lucerne and Interlaken includes some spectacular views. The train climbs up to the Brünig Pass and then down to Meiringen. For the Sherlock Holmes fans, the Reichenbach Waterfall is nearby. It was here the fatal struggle between Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty took place.
Interlaken is beautifully located between the Brienz and Thun lakes. The train travels along the Brienz Lake on its way towards Interlaken. Note that Interlaken has two train stations, Interlaken East and Interlaken West. The train from Luzern terminates at Interlaken East. It is short walk to the town centre.
Interlaken has plenty to offer the visitor, it is worth staying a couple of days. Just to mentioned some of the main attractions. The top of Europe railway, taking you up to the Jungfraujoch station at 3454 metres above sea level. The railway to Jungfraujoch starts from Kleine Scheidegg. From Interlaken Ost you can take a train to Lauterbrunn and change to the train towards Kleine Scheidegg. The James Bond fan can continue with bus to Stechelberg and then take the cable cars up to Schilthorn. Alternatively, you can take the funicular from Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalp and from there the train to Murren and then the cable car up to Schilthorn. The restaurant at the top of the Schilthorn was used for filming the James Bond film On Her Majesty's Secret Service. On a clear day, you have wonderful mountain views. From Interlaken you can also take a cruise on the Brienz Lake to Brienz. And from here the steam train up to Rothorn. Most things are expensive in Switzerland so you may want to make sure that it is a clear day before you pay for tickets up to places like Jungfraujoch.
From Interlaken you continue with SBB trains to Zweisimmen. It's a short ride, slightly more than an hour, a little bit more if you have to change trains in Spiez. Apart from the views of the Spiez Lake and the mountains behind the lake, it is a fairly normal train journey.
Zweisimmen is a small place, most tourists just change trains and continue their journey. It is a little bit unfair, Zweisimmen and its surroundings have a fair bit to offer, both in summer and winter. You can take a train up to Lenk. It is a short ride, just 18 minutes. Sometimes Lenk is mentioned as the end station of the Montreux-Berner Oberland-Bahn, which is the last leg of the Golden Pass Line.
Zweisimmen is the starting point of the last leg of the Golden Pass, it is the 62 kilometres to Montreux. The journey to the Geneva Lake takes just under two hours. Now the narrow gauge is back again. Clearly, this part has the most elegant trains in the whole of Switzerland. And the trains have the locomotive in the middle of the train. Instead the first cart has eight seats at the absolute front of the train, there the train driver normally sits. Note that these seats cost extra and must be booked in advance. Also, not every train between Zweisimmen and Montreux has panorama coaches so you may want to plan in advance and make sure that you get one special trains rather than a standard train.
Despite that the journey between Zweisimmen and Montreux does not climb up to any heights like the Bernina or Glacier Express it is a very beautiful train journey. From Zweisimmen the train climbs up to Saanenmöser station, at 1269 metres above sea level, from here it goes downwards with another climb up to Les Cases (1111 metres above sea level) just before the Geneva Lake appears.
The train also crosses the language barrier, from the German speaking part into the French speaking part of Switzerland. Gstaad is a famous winter resort but it is possible to find some reasonably priced accommodation most of the time. Inspector Clouseau hasn't been seen in Gstaad for quite some time but the town is well worth visiting both summer and winter.
Once in Montreux, it is possible to continue with SBB trains to Lausanne and Geneva. Other popular destinations are Zermatt and Italy, via the Simplon Tunnel. On a clear day, it is worth taking the rack railway up Rochers-de-Naye for even more stupendous views.
Note that if you want to see a lot of snow, not just on top of the mountains you need to travel during winter or spring. In summer and autumn virtually no snow can be seen. Also, try to stay a few days in Interlaken and visit at least Jungfraujoch. For James Bond fans Schilthorn is a must and the steam train up to Rothorn is another nice day tour. Unfortunately, few things are cheap around Interlaken.
For queries about Swiss trains, go to the SBB website by clicking here